Low-Carb Community Chews the Fat Washington Post - February
12, 2004
By Don Oldenburg
Washington Post Staff Writer
Thursday, February 12, 2004; Page C01
There were some comments over lunch tables
where low-carbohydrate entrees are served at the Connoisseur
Cafe and Market. A few questions were overheard in the aisles
filled with low-carb products.
Like low-carb devotees everywhere, customers at
this longtime low-carb mecca in Anderson, S.C., heard the news
this week that according to a coroner's report, diet guru
Robert Atkins was obese at the time of his death, weighing 258
pounds. He also suffered from heart disease and hypertension.
But cafe co-owner Elaine Payne says the news
hasn't shaken one ounce of low-carb followers' faith.
"I don't see great concern," says
Payne, who co-founded the store in 1977, opened a sister cafe
in Greenville and runs the retail shop Low Carb Connoisseur
online. "I haven't seen anyone who is truly a low-carb
follower who gives any credence to this at all."
At Carb Cops, a low-carb superstore in Redondo
Beach, Calif., owner Sean Williams says the news has given
pause only to "newbies" on low-carb diets. "It
wasn't really a surprise to anybody in the industry,"
says Williams, who has lost 35 pounds in two years. "We
were familiar with Dr. Atkins and knew he had heart problems
unrelated to the diet."
Atkins died in April after falling on ice and
injuring his head. A copy of the medical examiner's report was
mistakenly released to the vegetarian advocacy group
Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine and the contents
first reported in the Wall Street Journal. After the story,
the Atkins Physicians Council, a group of doctors paid to
provide guidance and education about the diet, said Atkins had
gained more than 60 pounds from fluid retention in the eight
days he was in a coma before dying. Council chairman Stuart
Trager said that Atkins's weight varied from 180 to 195 pounds
before he was admitted to the hospital and that his heart
ailment was a previously diagnosed cardiomyopathy thought to
be the result of a viral infection.
Not long ago, the Atkins Diet was considered a
bizarre, even dangerous fad. Most low-carbers all but stop
eating bread, pasta, potatoes, sugars, fruits, starchy
vegetables and other standard carbohydrates, and favor diets
dominated by meats, dairy products and other high-protein and
high-fat foods.
Low-carb momentum picked up speed as more
research over the past few years seemed to validate it as a
healthy alternative to conventional-wisdom pyramid eating. Now
an estimated 35 million Americans have bought into one
low-carb orientation or another. The low-carb Bible --
"Dr. Atkins's New Diet Revolution" -- sells at a
rate to rival Harry Potter. And low-carb momentum has launched
a national marketing trend seen in new low-carb magazines,
online support groups, low-carb dishes added to restaurant
menus, and low-carb products in stores.
But at the belly of the phenomenon is the
low-carb community of Atkins devotees who share enthusiasm for
the "low-carb way of life," or the LC WOL, as they
call it. And the true believers are not panicking at the
week's news.
"Quite the opposite. They are angry and
upset," says Lora Ruffner, editor in chief of the online
Low-Carb Luxury Magazine, who has lost 156 pounds in five
years. "We're changing the world and things like this
cannot stop us."
On the online forum Talking Low Carbs
yesterday, besides the usual chattering about no-crust pizza
and low-carb alcoholic drinks, one forum member posted the
story about Atkins. Another poster wrote: "Lies, lies and
more lies," and said she saw Atkins on television weeks
before his death and "no way did he appear obese or
overweight to me!"
Another low-carb disciple posted: "In my
book, he was ill, not obese. Being bloated and ill is not the
same thing as not being ill and being obese. I think 'we' know
the difference." Still another ended a message with
"Chin up y'all -- sticks and stones and all that!"
The bottom line for most low-carb devotees is
that their personal experience confirms the success of the
low-carb lifestyle, says Betsy Gartrell-Judd, a co-owner and
executive editor of Low Carb Energy Magazine, scheduled to
premiere in May. "It's going to take a pretty convincing
report to convince them that lower cholesterol and less weight
is bad for them."
She says that among the low-carb community,
there has been more indignation than panic over the report.
"People feel like their intelligence has been
insulted," she says. "If the man actually died of a
low-carb diet, you better have your ducks in a row before you
expect us to buy into that."
Outsider snickering has also annoyed them.
Denigrators online and in newspaper headlines are calling the
diet doctor "Fatkins." And an online poster,
referring to Atkins being injured falling on an icy street,
spoofed a current TV ad promoting low-carb dining: "It's
okay. He was on his way from Subway."
An online donnybrook broke out yesterday on alt.support.diet.low-carb,
a diet newsgroup, when a doubting poster asked: "Is this
proof enough?"
One reply: "This article was written by
PETA fanatics to try and discredit Atkins and is mostly
bunk." To which another person retorted: "Your fat
heads are in the sand."
But carb-cutting cultists find little humor in
what they consider the latest attack from critics. The word
"conspiracy" hangs heavy in the thin air of low-carb
country.
"The article has strengthened those who
are anti-low-carb -- they are really going after this with a
vengeance," says Regina Schumann, chief operating officer
of the nonprofit Carbohydrate Awareness Council, a Falls
Church-based group formed in November to support the
scientific basis of low-carb nutrition.
CAC President Gil Wilshire, an endocrinologist,
thinks that until the preponderance of scientific evidence
validates low-carb nutrition, antagonists will spread rumors
and some people will worry.
"Yeah, people are sheeple," says
Wilshire, who calls carb-cutting not a diet but a
"paradigm shift in nutrition understanding" that
ultimately will change how everyone eats. "In the long
run, this report is just a blip."